Posts by Three Dawg

    Trouble with GSs and other modern bikes is that there is no room for anything, but apart from making changing the airfilter a bit more long winded (ahem) behind the battery works OK I reckon. Anyway, it was easier than finding somewhere for all the gubbins for 4 HID aux lights to go: 2 relays, four igniters, four ballasts and the lock out switches plus all the wiring...

    Well I fitted the Eastern Beaver relay kit today.


    All came nicely packaged from Japan (after I'd paid the import duty and the twelve quid admin charge :cursing:). This is quality kit with top spec Panasonic relays. I also bought a three way fused mini distributor loom and a splitter bacause I have aux lights and a feed for Mrs 3D's leccy vest attached to the battery.



    Decided the best place for the relays was on the headstock. Fastened them to a plate and then used industrial Velcro to hold the plate in place. Relays are sealed, so should be fine there.



    Drilled a couple of new holes in the headlamp shell to feed the new wires through. On this kit the socket for the bulb is loose to make fitting easier in what is a fairly restricted place. Relay operating feeds for the aux lights taken off the main and pilot lights. Existing earth from the handlebar switch is taped up as it is redundant. Snip the main and dipped beam leads from the handlebar 8| and connect to the new relays with Posi Locks, I used a couple of diaphragm (sp?) grommets in the new holes.



    Further back I needed to try to tidy up the new wiring. .. There are four connectors - two sets of aux lights, feed for the main light and the leccy vest, but the new mini loom means I only have two connectors on each battery pole, although I do have a take off for various earth cables, but it's still only two on the battery.



    There is only one place it can go - behind the battery. Coiled it up a bit and fixed it down loosely with a clip. None of it weighs anything so I think it will be fine, and I can easily get at the fuses. :/ There's quite a lot going on there with the new fuses, connectors, Garmin box and wiring for the temperature spoofer, but I think It's OK. All works anyway, and the new relays will guarantee maximum lumens at the front while protecting my expensive switchgear.


    Did you go softer or firmer on the rear spring? If firmer you may need to tweak the rebound up a click or two, but you know that I'm sure.


    Should have the Falco back soon too after its suspension rebuild. He has hopefully fitted softer fork springs and 5w oil - be interesting to see how it feels, even with multiple adjustments to play with it felt far too firm. Rear Showa is off a Mille and is reckoned to be pretty good, but new oil and regassing should sharpen it up nicely.


    Great suspension and decent brakes are ahead of engine power in my book.:)

    20W oil? Blimey, that's heavy! I meant to say that I found Motul Factory Line fork oil very good, even made the manky old Marzos on the Laverda work tolerably well.

    Yeah, similar to the Fuzebloc and others including EB. What I have bought (apart from the relay loom) is a small splitter loom which is unswitched to save on connections to the battery. It's a bit tight under the seat behind the battery where I might otherwise put a box as the Garmin power box and the wiring for the temperature spoofer is.


    I will run the feeds to all the lights from this plus Mrs 3D's heated vest. This is the lead https://www.easternbeaver.com/…CS-Sealed/3cs-sealed.html Anyway, it's on its way so I'll report back on the install soon.

    Just thought I would report on how the Conti/Mitas combo I used on my last trip went.


    In terms of working together they matched very well, especially after they had a few hundered miles on them. On tarmac I was perfectly happy with the grip available - the TKC is known to be a soft compound and it's the front I don't want to loose. In the rain I had no slides, but then again I tend to slow down quite a lot when it's wet and I'm not on my usual 80/20 radials. On tarmac I found that dropping the rear from 42psi to 40 made a big difference to the way the bike felt. On gravel I dropped to between 30 and 32 at the front (from 36) which helped steering and comfort a lot, but at those pressures on tarmac (two up fully loaded) the front felt horrible. I don't drop the rear pressures unless I'm in sandy conditions.


    The grip when the going got soft was great - such a treat to be able to steer the bike in sand and mud, even if most of the improvement was probably in my head. But in fairness I didn't drop the bike once, which is a bit unusual.:P Mind you, gassing it makes a massive difference, the whole plot comes together in an instant and you actually start feeling in control!


    The big question before we set off was regarding wear. If you listen to the Americans they will tell you that a TKC front will be done in 4000 miles maximum, but I found this to be untrue. We covered 6200 miles, probably 3/4 of that on tarmac in the heat and there is still a reasonable amount of meat at both ends. The rear is at 4.5mm and the front is at 5.5mm.


    Would I use this combination again? Certainly, although I would really like to try a radial knobbly like the Michelin Anakee Wild too as a comparison to these bias tyres.


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    Ordered up some new wiring from Eastern Beaver https://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/main.html in Japan. Got a kit to add two relays for the headlight - clearly not having them is getting to the switchgear and also the light should be considerably brighter having a direct feed from the battery. Also got one of their battery connection splitter leads so I can rationalise the number of leads going to the battery down to two. OK, could have done this myself, but this kit looks good. Biggest problem on the GS is finding space for relays (have one each for the fogs and spots) and other things like the box for the Garmin power feed. It's pretty crammed in there!

    Moto Rebuilds. http://Www.motorebuilds.com although the website seemed a bit wonky last time I looked. He's on faceberk too iirc. I'm still waiting for my bike to be finished but the guy knows his stuff. I'll let you know how he does with the shock - he fits new seals, oil and regasses after a thorough clean.


    Have Wilbers on the GS and have had the rear done, front this year wilk be done by Revs Racing who are the importers. Oil gets shitty just like in forks and damping suffers.

    Do we have this already?


    I refitted the standard weight spring to the GS today, lovely job. Also tried to clean out the headlamp switch to stop the pilot light flickering. Fairly succesful, but I suspect the switch is on the way out. Replacement is about £150! =O